AW16 | Gilet

Funky up your autumn winter fashion

fun and playing gilet with combination of faux fur, mesh, leather and snake skin pattern

Eccentric Renaissance

The basic of designing a collection is to start with a strong research and development of ideas. The first process I did was planning out the theme/concept of my collection, what is all about?, who’s it for? and what is the story behind it.

“Eccentric Renaissance” is a unique collection that show case how art and fashion can merge in together to a create a powerful, elegant yet unusual designs. The inspiration of this idea came from my trip to Milan.

I was inspired my the beauty of the people in the painting, the clothing that they were wearing and the time period in general. Elegance, Rich and luxurious. So many interesting and usual objects and sculptures that were placed there was very inspiring and from there I started to looking at the renaissance period plus a very fascinating artist called “Nicola Simori”. 

After researching lots of different ideas, I decided to focused my research on renaissance dark arts, renaissance costume and and the intrigue tale of Henry VIII.

The next stage of the process is to develop my initials ideas and I have done this by gathering primary and secondary resources including images from internet, personal photographs and text book and from this I then start to creating my mini mood board in my sketch book. Next I then started picking out different elements in the image that really stood out to me the most and create a textiles sample from it plus doing a study drawing of an original image but add my own flavor to make it my own style.

 From looking at the mini boards I was quickly inspired by what I see and from that I then do a quick sketch of different designs and a mini collection, this is so that I can look back and develop it even further or even use it as one of my 12 final designs. 

The reason for choosing the play suit top "Dim Misty Rena" because I feel that it really represented the renaissance period with the elegance of the design but also the dramatic of it and really suited my own quirky personal style. But also because of the construction of it as well as I feel that I can really challenge myself evenmore and improve the overall skills of problems solving and construction of a garment.

  During the development of designs and ideas from the initials research I have experimented a lot with different textiles and fabric manipulation which includes gathering, pleating, thread pulling, burning and elastic sheering. I tried to experiment a lot of different things because it enabled me to create more design ideas by looking and touching a 3D objects. As for the final design I am quite surprise that I did not use the burning effects that creates a rusty and old look to the garment which represent the the renaissance time. But however the technique that I have used in my final design was gathering, draping, fabric manipulation using pinch pleats, incorporating colours and decorative techniques. 

The gathering technique was used on the sleeves to create the dramatic effects of big and puffy shoulders which was very popular during the 14th -15th century. I also experimented with draping ideas for this project which was inspired by the statue in the painting and the draping element is used on the top layer of shoulder giving that flowing, free and elegant look to the garment. The colours that was incorporated in the design was light peacock blue, silver and gold these are reflected by using angelina fibres trapped between jet black cotton and pure white organza plus the details of sparkle gems and sequins which creates a high definition couture look to the garment. I also used pinch pleats as one of the technique towards my final design this was used of the neck ruff to create exaggerated big and bold pleats which work very effectively and I am very happy with the result because it simple yet very unique.

For the target market requirements I feel that the final design is very appropriate and represented the whole collection to show what is all about and suite well with the exhibition theme which is the target I was working towards to shows the modern take of the Renaissance which I am sure the viewers will love and appreciate the history of fashion and art.

From the very beginning process of my research I have always tried to create a sketch next to my mini mood boards or images in my sketch book as it helped play with different ideas and can always look back and develop it. Each time I tried to experiment with different media to see which one I would prefer the best but also which one I am comfortable and can produce a professional end result from it.These including pen, pencil sketching, water colours, ink, markers, acrylics paint and colour pencil. The media that I have used quite a lot was very surprising and unexpected because I have been struggling to control the movement and get the perfect finish to it and that media is water colours. For water colours I have learn that you really need to be free with it and let the brush flow and what I really like about water colour is that it creates a artistic messy look and plus because you can work back into it with other different media like fine writer, colour pencils.

Media Experiment 

However after experimenting with different media, I came up with an idea of bringing the Renaissance period to a modern day we lived in which is the high end technology. From this it leads me to creating my illustrations on computer using adobe illustrator. The process was very trick and time consuming as I am trying to recreate the design from my sketch book to a computerize version. As well as that I also combine my drawing to the illustration to create a old and rusty effects. I have done by drawing a front and back view of a model head and photoshop this on to the templates and finishing of by putting the computerize version of the design on top. As for the details of the garment I thought it be interesting to actually have a realistic image of sequins photoshop on to the design which has worked really well.

My ideas towards the marketing concept is to create a innovative bag to sell in the exhibition which gives a audience a sense of the brand and something to leave with because they cannot but the garment. I feel that the garment works really well with the marketing ideas as they compliments each other and represent my style so eventhough they cannot but the design they still got something to leave with at very sensible price.

 The overall view of the assignment I am very happy with the end result as everything executed with care and hard work and there is not a lot I want to change. However, perhaps the illustration of the final 12 design could be improved as I fee that I did not captured the silhouette of the garment as I feel that it looked a bit stiff and not as much movement in them. As for the action plan, I have defiantly have to amen it a little bit due working ahead of schedule like I say before which I am very happy with because it enabled me to do and create more work for my final design which is creating a loo book. 

More behind the scene photos 

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Mini Collection of 21st Centry Lady Victorian

In previous week in fashion history lesson, we have been studying on the Victorian era fashion and shows how fashion changes and interchanges from then and now. The task we have been given was to chose an image from the Victorian era, use it as your inspiration and start designing from it. 

As for this task I have decided to create my self a mini mood board with words that stud out to me the most in the images. The reason for this because it helps me get an rough visual idea in my head what the design going to look like to be able to transfer it on paper.

From the Victorian era I was inspired by so many different things as you can see by looking at my mood board. My first idea that came a cross was a picture of a prostitute sitting on a chair from the Victorian time and just what she was wearing give me a whole new different idea.

The dress that she was wearing was quite loose, shows a little bit of exposed of her legs an her bust and the neck shape of her dress is a traditional sweet heart. From this, I was thinking about a symmetrical, sweet heart neck top and playing around with an idea of showing bit of skin but not too much. 

Not only that, I was also interest by different parts of Victorian fashion for example like the bustle, crinoline, the boots sandle, the flap on top of the dress and the cape.

So within all of those inspiration it has given me an idea of designing a mini collection as I wanted to shows the complementary between each design and it will like all together a a collection and here it is. 

My style for my design shows a modernity, simple but chic and very wearable at the same time. As you can see in the design I try not to be too ritual from what I take as inspiration because I like to change elements to it to make it modern and my style but also at the same time it still have the originality.

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LOOK 1

The first look was inspired by the big puffy dresses and the crinoline in the mood board. A simple, sexy and close fitting top with a singles strap cross the shoulders, with a sweet heart neck and a puffy skirt and a stiletto heels to finish the look. On the look you can see where I take idea from the crinoline and use it as a little detail on the top.

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LOOK 2

A V neck close fitting top with two straps with a touch of a crinoline detail round the waist. The idea of the skirt came from the Victorian blazer with flaps. I transfer this to an pencil with a detail of a flap of the left hand side.

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LOOK 3

From the look two once again I have design a top with a sweet heart neck, three straps both shoulders and the neck inspiration came from the crinoline and two simple zips at the bottom to add modernity. A long skirt with puffy bottom was inspired by the big puff dress at the time to finish of the look.

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LOOK 4

I have to say that I really love this oversize coat and again taking the inspiration of the big puffy dresses and changes to something completely into a different garment. Plus a simple pencil skirt with a slash on one knee. 

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LOOK 5

This look really shows my experiment with showing different parts of body. By taking the inspiration from the sweet heart dress from the mood board and a lady wearing a blazer with flaps and a hat, I have design a cock tail dress, with a single strap on the right, the flap on the left and a touch of a leotard look. the bottom of the skirt shows a little detail of skin which was  inspired from the crinoline.

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LOOK 6 

Look six is about combining the cape of crinoline together. The cape has a neck detailed strap, beautifully drape at the shoulders and a quarter length long at the back, again with two zips to shows modernity.

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LOOK 7

Last look is a V neck loosing fitting top, with a strap detail on the shoulders which shows a little bit of skin and two zips. Finishing of the look with a knee high length pencil skirt with another strap detail and both sides.

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Photos behind the progress

I also started designing which sort of accessories would go best with the design.

The progress went from having face features to non face feature as I feel it takes the attention away from the design.

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